Walmer Castle - Walmer, Kent (EH)
Like its sister castle a couple of miles down the coast at Deal, Walmer was built by Henry VIII between 1539 and 1540 as part of his coastal defense system, stretching from Hull to Milford Haven. As artillery gained in influence, so the defendable strongholds changed in appearance and function. In the early sixteenth century, the modern fort was relatively low and squat, presenting less of a target to attackers' guns. The walls were tremendously thick, with earth-filled bastions on top to support heavy guns. Here at Walmer, the original Tudor fort can still be seen underneath the later alterations and although a less complex original structure than Deal, it is very useful to one's understanding of Walmer's structure and function to see Deal first, then come to Walmer.
There was originally a central circular keep, surrounded by four semi-circular bastions. The walls are higher than at Deal, but there are fewer bastions and a deeper dry moat. By 1540, Walmer had its first garrison, but didn't see active service until the Civil War. Following the execution of Charles I, the Kentish uprising in 1648 led to the siege of the three castles (Sandown, Deal and Walmer) by Parliamentary forces. Walmer castle held out for three weeks, but was forced to surrender due to lack of provisions and any relieving support. All three castles were repaired and during the Dutch Wars of the mid-seventeenth century, they provided protection to shipping out at sea. By the end of the century, Walmer and its nearby neighbours had become rather old-fashioned and Walmer was ready to take on its latter day role as official residence of the Lords Warden of the Cinque Ports.
In 1708 the Duke of Dorset became the first Lord Warden to live at Walmer castle. He extended the accommodation from the keep out over the bastions and further alterations were made by successive Lords Warden right up until the 1930s. The most lasting and substantial additions were made by Earl Granville in the second half of the nineteenth century. He also continued the work of a previous Lord Warden, William Pitt the Younger, who, together with his energetic niece, Lady Hester Stanhope, had landscaped and planted the gardens in the 1800s, turning Walmer into a comfortable country house.
The gardens today are still one of Walmer's chief delights, with colourful borders set against dark Yew hedges, a water garden, a vegetable garden and woodland walk with squirrels in abundance.
The interior of the castle now reflects the succession of Lords Warden and the most prestigious of them all was the Duke of Wellington. It was here at Walmer, which he loved, that the Iron Duke died in 1852. There are several rooms containing items he used and contemporary memorabilia.
Walmer castle is now under the care of English Heritage and provides a useful counterpoint to the nearby castle at Deal. Built at the same time, Deal was also altered to house its own later captains in style, but through war and restoration, now displays its Tudor origins. At Walmer, we can see how the centuries' development and adaptation has produced a largely nineteenth century country house on top of the Tudor fort.