Furness Abbey - Low Furness, Cumbria (EH)
The isolated situation of the red sandstone ruins of the abbey of St. Mary of Furness became one of the reasons for the abbey's success. Although initially chosen by the Savigniac monks around 1127 both for its ready supply of local building material and potential farming capabilities, the Savigniac order was a strict one which required a separation from the laity, not so difficult in this secluded 'valley of deadly nightshade'. When the abbey was absorbed into the larger, more powerful and more worldly Cistercian Order in 1150 (following the resistance of the then Abbot, Peter of York) it's industrious lay brother community became more prominent within the wider community, some taking key roles in the business and commercial affairs of the monastery, leaving the choir monks free to follow their stricter regime of daily prayers.
Through grants of land from King Stephen and later benefactors, the power and influence of the abbey grew and Furness became the second richest Cistercian abbey in England, after Fountains in Yorkshire. 'Daughter houses' were founded from the abbey, some of which prospered and some of which fell foul of the raiding Scots. Furness itself was attacked in 1316 and when the Scots came again in 1322 under Robert Bruce, the abbot, John Cockerham, paid a ransom and entertained Robert in his own lodgings rather than try to defend the abbey and its property. The remains of this early to mid-thirteenth century lodging building can be seen to the south east of the church.
The Nave, looking towards the central crossing.
The national crises of the fourteenth century, war with France, famine and the Plague, all hit the Cistercian farming economy and much of Furness abbey's land was put out to tenant farmers, resulting in a decline in the required number of lay monks. Disputes between the abbey and nearby landowners became frequent by the beginning of the sixteenth century and when Henry VIII wielded his power to suppress the monasteries, Furness became the first of the major monasteries to submit. The surviving deed of surrender was signed in 1537 and shortly afterwards the buildings began to be dismantled. Lead was removed from the roofs and the delicate stone tracery from the windows was taken out for use elsewhere.
The beautifully carved arches in the east range.
Given the re-use of the high quality stonework and other building materials, it is amazing that as much as this survived. The abbey began to attract interest from the public during the Romantic period, with poetry by Wordsworth, who knew the abbey well, and drawings and engravings by Turner among others, encouraging tourists to view the ivy-clad remains. When the railway came (the line is still very close to the abbey) the site became so popular that a large hotel was built on the site now occupied by the museum and shop. Early Victorian photographs show how the site was gradually devegetated and repaired to conserve the stonework.
The large Chapter House, where the daily business of the abbey was carried out.
Part of the sophisticated drainage and water system.
The abbey is now under the care of English Heritage and the museum contains some very interesting finds from the site, including unusual stone effigies. Like all the abbeys we have visited, Furness has the same basic layout and features, but an atmosphere entirely its own. The scale of the church is smaller than Fountains and the decoration is plainer than Rieveaulx but enough remains of the early church and surrounding buildings to provide a glimpse of the work and worship which gave life to the abbey so many years ago.